Going wild and free in Malmesbury
By Tracy Spiers 2011
Queen of Hilltop Towns, Malmesbury is a beautiful, friendly place with a colourful eclectic mix of extraordinary features including lace-making, a flying monk, naked gardeners, jackdaws, vacuum cleaners and Britain’s best sausages. On a rare occasion, I find myself completely alone, minus man and daughters, so wander at will, enjoy solace in the beautiful Abbey, expose some flesh in the Abbey Gardens, browse in the town’s individual shops and realise Eilmer isn’t just a patchwork colourful elephant. Also recognise very quickly that this town may be small but it has a big history to tell.
Needing direction, head for town hall. A brilliant place to start as it has a lovely coffee shop, information centre, museum and town hall all in one. Jane Karnitschenko, owner of Jackdaws Coffee House shows me how she makes the perfect “flat white,” with a ristretto shot and a thin skin. Informs me true locals are known as Jackdaws. Apparently they had to be born within a mile of the Market Cross, which looks like a giant bird cage. Drink my coffee next to an uplifting sign and take note. It reads: “sit long, talk much, laugh often.” Feel at home.
Next door friendly Robin Schofield in the Tourist Information Centre animately fills me in on local history. Malmesbury is apparently the country’s oldest borough as King Alfred granted the town its charter in 880AD. His grandson Athelstan was the first King of all England and as a thank you to the townsfolk for helping him defeat the Vikings, gave individual pockets of land to locals and their right to freedom. It marked the start of Warden and Freeman, an organisation said to be the most exclusive club in the world. Today it still owns the land to the south of the town, along with dozens of properties, pubs and shops, providing affordable housing to townsfolk.
In the town hall an impressive exhibition of prints made by Bath Artist Printmakers grabs my attention. Take note of forthcoming art exhibitions: 28th October to 19th November: Kate Robinson; 21st November to 9th December: Malmesbury Art Society; and 12th December to 30th December: Rosie Mack. Other events in the town hall to note include Killer – The Jerry Lee Lewis Story, Saturday, October 29th; An evening with the humour of Bob Newhart and Tom Lehrer, Thursday, November 17th. Also worth noting is late night shopping in Malmesbury on Friday, December 9th.
As it’s Farmer’s Market Day (second and fourth Saturday each month), I wander up to top of the High Street next to the 41 feet high octagonal shaped Market Cross, one of the finest medieval market crosses in England. Am seriously tempted by Healed Earth’s myriad of colourful vegetables, particularly the yellow courgettes and mixed salad leaves, grown by owner Jane Wormell. Her dad, Bryan Card hands out tasters of his seriously good home-baked maple syrup and walnut flapjacks. Peta Tait’s stall, Olives and Things also woos me. Freshly marinated olives in sweet pepper, basil, lemon and spring onion are a must. Also tempted by a touch of spice at The Wiltshire Chill Farm’s stall offering quality hand-made sauces, including mango hot chilli sauce, hot sauce winner of the year. By the way, just outside of Malmesbury, Brinkworth – the longest village in England – has recently started holding its own farmers market every Wednesday 10-12 in the Church!
Talking of spiritual matters, I’m lured by the Abbey and forget to try the cheese, displayed so appealingly by traditional farmhouse cheese maker, Greens of Glastonbury. Ring Malmesbury mayor Steve Cox, who kindly meets me in the Abbey grounds. Together with Dave Forward, a local who seems to know everyone, I’m given my own personal tour of the majestic building. They point out bullet holes; famous carved pictures of New Testament figures on the Abbey doorway; and show me tombstone (empty) of King Athelstan, the first King of All England. I imitate facial expressions of wooden carvings of the apostles on show in the Abbey by German sculptor Ulrich Lindow and admire illustrations by local artist Phil Horswell to be used for a children’s guide to the Abbey. Through his pictures discover Eilmer the flying monk in 1010 decided to make wings and fly from the abbey, glided for 200 yards before landing and breaking his legs. Also find out once a year the Abbey is turned into a rolling skate park by a Christian organisation. Note for diary: Malmesbury Abbey Choir will be hosting its Christmas carol service on December 10th.
Outside in Abbey churchyard is gravestone of Hannah Twynnoy, a servant at the White Lion, an ancient inn in the town, who was killed in 1703 by a tiger, escaped from a travelling circus. No tiger in town today, but meet a lion in Malmesbury Rocks, a delightful toy shop, described as “an emporium of fun.” It’s really face-painted owner John Lawton. I can’t resist spinning a disk for charity on his old duke box. Choose “Born to be Wild.”
Bump into fully clothed Naked Gardener Barbara Pollard, co-owner of the 16th century Abbey House and its large five acre town centre Abbey Gardens. She and husband Ian, who are not afraid to brave the elements and garden in the buff have been featured widely in the media. Steppenwolf’s wild track is still playing in my mind so decide to follow this fellow purple-haired lady’s example and expose a bit of flesh. That’s what happens when my family leave me for a day! Try not to frighten Brutus, the female Egyptian Leopard Spot tortoise. Enjoy the tranquillity and surprises; love the creative cuttings of some of the trees including a giant head with wide eyes. Obviously a secret spy watching those brave enough to garden in their birthday suits!
Am quickly sensing a theme to my visit: wildness. Spot a shop called The Wild Food Company. Come out with a pack of spicy broad beans. Capers looks interesting too with its artisan cheeses, charcuterie and antipasto; but am compelled to drool over The Summer Café’s mushrooms, spinach, hazelnuts and white truffle oil pie, not to mention its mean chocolate fudge cake. Run by Debbie and Matt Wood, this place will threaten any diet.
Return to town hall to pop into Athelstan Museum and learn all about the town’s lacemaking legacy thank to a reconstructed room dedicated to Annie Goodfield, Malmesbury’s last lacemaker who attended Lady Suffolk’s lace making classes in the early 1900’s. Today the town is known for its connections to international company at the forefront in household appliances, Dyson, which has its headquarters here. One exhibition not to miss is Turner’s Malmesbury, featuring J.M.W Turner’s paintings of the town; runs until January 14th.
Go on a shop nose. Enjoy creative ideas in French Grey Kitchen shop. Love the piranha pizza cutter and egg cup baskets. Tell owner Sophie Biggin about my exploits in abbey gardens. She lets slip she is getting married there, but will definitely be wearing a wedding dress. Admire clothes in Clobber and Mistral; pick up a bargain in Cancer Research Shop and take note of places to bring husband, including Amanda’s Bistro and The Old Bell Hotel in Abbey Row.
By talking to locals, realise the world music festival WOMAD is held in nearby Charlton Park; the town also has a thriving carnival in August and provides plenty of picturesque scenery for keen ramblers. Pick up a Walker’s Guide from the tourist information centre to explore at a later date.
In my hunt for sausages, come across a pair of bright cerise pink London cabs (The Pink Cab run by Tina and Mark Stevenson) awaiting to transport the bride and groom emerging from the Abbey. Based in nearby Tetbury, the couple’s pink cabs are a familiar sight in Malmesbury. I get to sit inside as I have the essential footwear. Tina and I share a love for Dr Marten boots. I got married in a white pair by the way.
Fulfil my mission to find Thomas of Malmesbury, the butchers responsible for the Malmesbury King, Britain’s best sausage – a “gloriously meaty sausage, full of natural pork and herb flavour.” Handmade by Michael Thomas, these sausages are declared the “tastiest and most delicious” in the Spiers household. Michael also makes the Malmesbury Chip, which he calls the son of the King! Perhaps he’ll make some chipettes for my daughters.